Wood Deck Cost

$18 to $55/sqft

A deck built 12 to 30 inches above grade uses surface-mounted post bases or concrete block piers, requires no diagonal bracing in most jurisdictions, and is the simplest to frame and build. The low height means stairs are typically one or two steps rather than a full stair run. Code in most US jurisdictions classifies decks under 30 inches as low-level and exempts them from railing requirements, which can significantly reduce cost. This is the most common deck type for attached backyard decks on flat lots. PT pine and cedar are both excellent choices.

$40 to $110/sqft

An elevated deck on posts 3 to 12 feet above grade requires deeper concrete footings (below the frost line), taller posts, diagonal knee bracing between posts for lateral stability, and a full stair run with railing. Engineering review is often required for decks more than 8 feet above grade. The framing cost increases significantly with height: a 6-foot elevated deck adds 30 to 50 percent more framing cost than a comparable ground-level deck. Railing is required on all elevated decks. Elevated decks on sloped lots often require a stair landing partway down the slope, adding another stair run.

$45 to $90/sqft

A wraparound deck extends along two or more sides of a house, typically transitioning from a back deck around to a side entrance or front porch. The additional railing perimeter, multiple stair runs, and complex framing at the corners make wraparound decks more expensive per square foot than a simple rectangular deck. Corner posts must carry loads from two directions, which requires larger post sizing and deeper footings. The payoff is significant: a wraparound deck dramatically increases usable outdoor space and adds curb appeal. Cedar and white oak are popular species for wraparound decks because they weather consistently around all sides.

$55 to $120/sqft

A multi-level deck descends from the house door level in two or more platform levels, connected by intermediate stair runs. Common on sloped lots where a single-level deck would require extremely tall posts on the downhill side. Each tier is essentially a separate deck with its own framing, and the intermediate stair runs and landing add substantial cost. The advantage for homeowners is that each level creates a distinct outdoor use zone: upper level off the door for dining, lower level near grade for a fire pit or garden area. Multi-level decks typically require permit drawings and engineering sign-off, adding $500 to $1,500 to the project.

Larger decks have lower labor cost per square foot because framing setup, ledger installation, and post setting are fixed costs spread over more decking area. A 10x12 deck (120 sqft) typically costs $38 to $65 per square foot installed. A 20x24 deck (480 sqft) typically costs $28 to $50 per square foot at the same species and railing style. This means quoting a large deck as a simple multiple of a small deck will overprice it. Always calculate each deck independently rather than scaling from a previous project. As a rule of thumb, doubling the deck area adds roughly 1.5 to 1.7 times the labor, not 2 times.

The decking boards are typically 20 to 30 percent of the total project cost, but species choice has an outsized effect because it affects both material price and labor. Ipe requires carbide-tipped saw blades, pre-drilled holes at every fastener location (or proprietary hidden fasteners), and oiling before installation to prevent cracking. Upgrading from cedar to ipe adds $3 to $8 per square foot in material cost and 25 to 40 percent more installation labor per square foot. White oak decking is increasing in popularity for contemporary homes: it is harder than cedar, more stable, and the ray-fleck grain pattern in flat-sawn boards is visually striking. White oak adds $3 to $6 per square foot over cedar in materials with similar labor. All framing should be pressure-treated regardless of what species you use for the surface decking.

Railing is consistently the most expensive component per linear foot on a deck project. A 40-lf perimeter of cedar railing with vertical cedar balusters adds $3,200 to $5,600 to the project total (materials and labor). Cable railing (stainless cable strung between cedar or steel posts) adds $6,000 to $10,000 for the same 40 lf because of the specialized tensioning hardware and the need to route cables precisely through each post. Glass panel railing adds $8,000 to $14,000 for 40 lf. Most jurisdictions require railing on decks more than 30 inches above grade. Always quote railing as a separate line item so clients understand exactly what they are buying. Clients who want to reduce cost often ask to remove or reduce railing once they see itemized pricing.

A deck built 30 inches or less above grade (classified as low-level in most codes) can use surface-mounted post bases on concrete piers and often requires minimal diagonal bracing. A deck 3 to 4 feet above grade needs taller posts, diagonal knee bracing between posts, and deeper footings to resist the increased lateral load from wind and live loads. A deck 6 to 12 feet above grade (typically on a sloped lot or over a basement) requires full engineered post-and-beam framing, often with doubled or tripled beams, and significantly more concrete for footings. Adding 4 feet of deck height adds roughly 20 to 35 percent to total framing cost and 15 to 25 percent to total labor. Sloped lots also require one stair run per 3 to 5 feet of height change, with each stair run adding $1,500 to $3,000 to the project.

Each stair run (a set of steps descending from the deck to grade) adds $1,500 to $3,000 to the project cost, depending on step count, tread width, and whether railing is required on the stair. Stair stringers must be cut to the exact rise and run for each step, which takes 2 to 4 hours even for an experienced carpenter. A 4-step run with 36-inch-wide cedar treads and painted risers takes 8 to 12 hours total including stringers, treads, risers, and landing. Wide stairs (48 to 60 inches) add cost because they require three stringers rather than two and more tread material. Curved or angled stairs add 50 to 100 percent more labor than straight stairs. Most residential decks have one stair run to grade; a deck on a sloped lot may require two, one from the door level and one to a lower grade level.

A simple rectangular deck is the most cost-efficient shape. Any deviation adds both material waste and labor time. An L-shaped deck requires two separate framing sections with a shared corner beam, adding 15 to 25 percent more framing labor than a rectangle of the same square footage. A deck with a notched corner (to work around a tree or existing structure) requires careful joist layout and blocking at the notch, adding 4 to 8 hours. Angled corners (45-degree cuts at the railing corners) require angled framing blocks and mitered railing cuts, adding 2 to 4 hours per corner. A wraparound deck on two sides of a house is essentially two separate decks sharing a corner, and costs should be calculated accordingly. Curved deck edges require bending the rim joist or cutting individual kerfs, adding 8 to 20 hours depending on the radius.